Second, what? "I have this problem with an Asrock board, therefore all ASRock boards are bad". The board you have is fine, you are using a chip in it that it was not designed for. The (much cheaper but still featured) asrock board I picked is designed for haswells.
I can't say ASRock is bad, because the first board I had was an ASRock too, with an AMD 6000+, and it worked without errors for 10 years.
But in short terms, every z97 board is fine here too.
Actually my first pick was an ASRock:
http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/ASRock-Z97-Anniversary-Edition-Intel-Z97-So-1150-Dual-Channel-DDR3-ATX-Re_967259.htmlSecond was MSI:
http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/MSI-Z97-PC-Mate-Intel-Z97-So-1150-Dual-Channel-DDR3-ATX-Retail_961290.htmlWhen you have your 1TB WD black, you won't end up thinking "Gee, I'm glad this thing copies at 160MB/s instead of 155MB/s", you'll be thinking "bah, I wish I had more than 1TB, this is nearly full".
Going with a modern crucial or samsung, you know you will be fine and have high performance (where it actually matters).
I actually only have 300GB at the moment HDD, so even 1 TB would be a huge improve.
But I get the point, there are no differences in HDD, but on SSD there is.
You will not be making your 4-core haswell throw out 140W+ of heat. (even ignoring for a second that it's safer to let a haswell go much hotter anyway than an FX).
A 120mm radiator with two good high static pressure fans (coolermaster blademasters are popular) either side is more than enough.
My question there was, if I could reach a clock around 4,7 GHz @ 1.4V, which will result in 165W allready on an i5 4690K. :/
Source:
http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jspBut Probably yes, because FX 8320 is allready 125W in base clock. :/
You seem stuck in your ways, go ahead then. At least on this part it's only a few euros you're wasting.
No, because as I said, the cooler comes up with thermal compounds, so I could probably spare that totally.
I guess only liquid metal makes a huge difference. :/
You keep focusing on the radiator (diameter) size, as if that is a metric of cooling efficiency. There are good 120mm and shit 240mm coolers. It's also important to use good fans on a radiator. Do you want to save money or not?
Yes I want too, but first time I was too greedy and paid the price. :/
If I would go with online stats, I would buy a Corsair. But they look even for me way too overpriced.
You actually buy physical bluray discs? Why not just download? No DRM, as a bonus. whether you go legally or take the torrent option, both superior. I'd say a new PC is a good time to switch to digital media and leave overpriced physical discs behind.
There I can agree, because if I look at the past I bought all on iTunes...
And the Blu Rays I allready have, I can watch on PS3, PS4 or One.
Even the 650W seasonic-built XFX PSU I picked was cheaper than yours. I linked both. I consider modular a gimmick. It's not hard to put a cable you're not using somewhere else. The case I chose has plenty of room for it.
I know, I have a non-modular at the moment, but nearly dead. Often need to reboot 10 times, till it starts again. :/
An i7 and i5 are literally the same chip. The i5 just has hyperthreading disabled. HT makes barely any difference in current games.
I know, HT only increases some programms, like 7zip, video editing. In games it is only 1 or 2 FPS. But after both are running 60 FPS, guess that doesn't matter.
But I was allways thinking myself, is 1 or 2 FPS really worth 100€+?
No, I guess. I don't think video editing get's a huge enough performance boost with HT. The next thing is, you can't overclock much with HT active. :/
Blowing 80+ euros more on a 970 than you need to is silly, you may as well buy a 980 instead.
I thought so too, but even I compare the 400€ GPU with a 480€ it's still allmost 80€ more. :/
MSI Gaming is 360€ vx 480€, but I will think about that.
Your warhead numbers are wrong, measured wrong, are from some messed up margin of error, or are due to some other factor (fresh reboot after changing memory clocks for example).
Ram capacity is another matter. But I can't be bothered making points for 8 v s 16GB.
Actually both were fresh reboots and both recorded with ShadowPlay. 1080p max settings 16x AF, 4x AA.
Actually Windows runs a bit faster too and it kills the lags in paint.net.
To convert a 1080p, 50 MB/s video, 512 KB/s Audio with 1 hour length takes only 40 minutes instead of 1 hour+.
The Video was converted down to 1080p, 6 MB/s video, 320 KB/s audio.
Actually most things are 8 GB RAM enough, but in "Wolfenstein The New Order" I allready reached 10 GB/8GB. O.o
The fault is yours, not the motherboard. The Asrock Z97 I linked is fine, and still has the important features. (Tip, if stuff is advertised as "super l33t gaming", you are being ripped off).
That I sadly know...
But I readed after ordering, that my board was only made for 95W CPU's not 125W, but there it was too late. :/
With the RAM I never had any issues. Only the socket overheats, but I have a crappy 10€ CPU Fan on it.
If you have a hate-boner for seagate, then a WD green will do you fine.
Your case does look terrible, but it's also overpriced. You keep mentioning budget, but then pick superfluous expensive parts.
I actually don't care about brands, these are only names. I care for stability and how long it lives.
The only thing I wouldn't change for sure, is the fancy case. Of course there are cheaper ones. But often cheap cases have bad airflow. :/
I have an old LC Power case at the moment, that came up with a LC Power LC6550 Version 2.0 PSU.
But I allways had overheating problems, even with the old AMD6000+ which was made by a professional.
I needed to let the case open, so it doesn't overheat.
If it matters, that's my actual rig: (\s/)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4akh5ySzEN2N1RCMlFYcWQtVmM
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